|325 Chestnut Street, Old City
PHONE SECTS WITH EVENING RESERVATIONS
"Would you like the Pagoda Banquettes, which seat six, or would you prefer the onyx-topped community table to share with about twenty people?"
"Am I limited to Japanese cuisine at the Pagoda?"
"Oh no, you'll be able to order from Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, Indian and Japanese anywhere in the restaurant. We serve the food of modern Asian sects. You might enjoy the long community table, as it's just past our bubbling waterfall of White Water, through a travel gate, and beyond a gigantic boulder we jokingly call Little Rock.
STEPS TO AVOID BEING SEEN
Most curious, however, are the chairs at all tables. Their backs are the shape of covered Prince tennis rackets onto which have been painted black-and-white real faces cut off at the neck. These bodiless visages stare at you pleasantly throughout your visit, but remind you of the shortcomings of all those enclosed in anything oval.
THE "WISH LIST"
2. Crispy Calamari Salad ($6/10): Only Le Bec Fin's Salad Lyonnais can compare. Buddakan's frizee greens are brilliantly springy and fresh. Hidden amongst the leaves, but for their abundance, are gorgeously browned, double-crisped squid circles whose breading has been touched by all Maylasian Spice Islands. Each morsel massages your mouth, making swallowing mindless.
3. Japanese Black Cod ($21): Anyone who fails to order this entree probably has the median I.Q. of the Judiciary Committee. I've tasted the best attempts at culinary creations of cod in Lisbon, Reykjavic, Boston, Fez and Paris, where one might expect the sublime. None comes close to the garishly glistening, lovingly lumped fish flesh broiled to a perfectly passionate portion. A fruity glaze is all that protects the filets from total nudity. A sidekick of grey-green wasabi mashed potatoes adds explosive bursts of biting and purring. Anyone seated near you may have to place a hand over your mouth to restrain the gracious groaning. Fortunately, Buddakan's surround-sound system is worthy of Souza at a rock concert. It declassifies every utterance as Asian psychobabble. The cod simply dissolves in a silky sable slip of one's tongue. A mist appears before your eyes. All other tastes vanish from memory.
5. Hangori Box of Assorted Pastries ($7): Tiny chocolate truffles, nutted cookies, little pies, a miniscule creme brulee, and perky petite tarts are displayed in a wide oriental canister. It's a precious dessert cartel.
EVIDENCE REGARDING COVER-UP
VIR SAPIT QUI PAUCA LOQUITUR
|Copyright 2004 Richard Max Bockol, Esq.||Back|