Happy Rooster

Feeling cocky? Make your way without doodling through the boisterously smoky and legendary bar-room, into the quite wood-walled non-smoking dining area. A blackboard displays everything from "Croque Monsieur" to "Scrambled Eggs and Caviar" (even Osetra at $75 an ounce).

Marinated Skirt Steak arrives nestled in a huge oval white tureen with a tassel of toothpick French fries. Roasted Chicken is deliciously skinful and plattered with sweet carrots and over mashed potatoes.

Ralph Lauren at the bar, might meet Ralph Cramden in the back, especially if the latter's bus crossed over the median into the French bistro cuisine lane.